Production

Once yarn has been received from the spinner and checked for quality, it is wound to measured length in preparation for warping. Each measured cone is placed on a creel in a sequence determined by the order of colouring in the pattern to be woven. The yarn runs from the cones through guidance eyes and under variable tension, dependent on thickness, through a reed that straightens the threads and on to the warping drum, where the warp is built up in sections, of typically 150 to 200 individual threads or ends, until the required number of ends for the warp is reached. This can be up to 8,000 in total, dependent on the fineness of the cloth.

Once warping is complete, the warp is run from the drum onto the beam that will eventually be used in the loom. At this stage, the warp passes through a liquid wax bath, adding a gossamer thin coating of soluble wax to each end, giving enhanced weavability in loom.

To ready the warp for the loom, the beam is then prepared on a fully computerised Uster Delta, a complex machine that performs three stages of preparation in one operation. Firstly, each end is individually pulled through a guide wire which is itself a part of a shaft. The sequencing of the wires on the shafts and the number of shafts and their position in the loom, determines the weave pattern in the piece of cloth. The end is then threaded through the reed. This reed controls the straightness of the ends across the width of the cloth and their density per centimetre. The final stage involves placing a "dropper" on each end. If an end breaks in weaving, this dropper will fall on to a bar and complete an electrical circuit which immediately stops the loom, allowing repair to the broken end. The Uster completes simultaneously, in approximately two hours, three operations that would take up to sixteen hours if performed separately and manually.

Once this operation is completed, the warp is introduced to the prepared loom. Simplistically, weaving is insertion of a weft thread - the pick - across the warp ends to form the cloth. Dependent on the weave pattern, the yarn colouring and the ends and picks per centimetre relative to the fineness of the yarn, endless permutations of design are possible.

At the start of weaving, the cloth is inspected to ensure that the piece matches the designated pattern exactly. Immediately the piece has finished weaving, it is again inspected for faults. No matter how carefully woven, minor blemishes such as knots or weaving irregularities occur. These are identified and the piece is passed through to mending. Once the mender is satisfied that the piece is up to standard, the piece is sent out to finish at companies with whom William Halstead have built up a relationship and trust over many years.

Mohair qualities are returned midway through the finish routine for further inspection and if necessary, extra mending and tidying prior to the final finish being applied to the piece.

On return from the finisher, the pieces are subjected to detailed examination on the finished perch. Our customers have every right to expect perfection in the cloth they have bought and the job of these inspectors is to make sure that every piece that leaves the mill is of the highest standard. Pieces are passed for pattern accuracy, shade, overall appearance and width. Any pieces that fail inspection are sent back to mending for correction and are then refinished if necessary. Once the inspectors are satisfied, the piece is passed through to prepare for despatch. Dependent on the customers requirement, pieces are either rolled open width on tube or folded and rolled half width on a flat board.

The former method is preferred by clothiers making multiple garment units, specifically for ready to wear. The latter method of rolling pieces half-width is preferred by merchants and wholesalers, selling cloth by the suit length for custom tailoring. Not only is it easier to handle and cut lengths from half width pieces, it is also easier to arrange and display these pieces at retail level. Once rolled, pieces are then packaged for shipment and despatched to customers in any one of the 40 countries William Halstead sell into worldwide.