It is no accident that William Halstead has gained the title as the ‘Master of Mohair’ amongst the leading-edge fashion houses of the world, international high-class tailors, and cloth merchants. Years of experience working with and sourcing the finest mohair fibres from South Africa have earned us this title and drive us to constantly improve our offerings.
The Beauty and Benefits of Mohair.
Mohair, often referred to as a “noble fibre” is celebrated for its exceptional lustre, resilience, and colour retention. These qualities have made it a staple in the world of luxury textiles. But mohair’s beauty goes beyond its aesthetics. It’s a sustainable and renewable resource, contributing to the well-being of the Karoo region and supporting approximately 30,000 people, many of whom are directly involved in mohair production.
Legacy of Angora Goats
Mohair comes from Angora goats found in the beautiful Karoo region of South Africa. A perfect home to the sheep due to the wide variety of bossies and thorn trees, interspersed with grasses, which are excellent browse for them, and the dry cold winters cut down on diseases and parasites.
The story begins in 1838, when the Sultan of Turkey gifted the continent with 12 Angora rams. Unaware that a pregnant ewe was among them. This single ewe gave birth to a ram kid during the journey, establishing the foundation of South African Angora goat breeding. It is now the largest producer of mohair in the world, home to 800,000 Angora goats.
Caring for Angora Goats
Important to us, we use Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) certified wool. RMS is an independent, voluntary standard, industry tool designed to recognise the best practices of farmers, ensuring that wool comes from farms with a progressive approach to managing their land and from sheep that have been treated responsibly.
To care for the goats, they are shorn twice a year. Following strict welfare standards. Shearing is crucial for their health as it prevents parasites and ensures proper vision and movement. After shearing, the farmers provide shelter to protect the goats from the elements. Their commitment to the goats’ well-being is paramount, as their fleece is a product of meticulous breeding and genetic selection.
To further safeguard the goats from parasites, they are occasionally dipped in specially formulated solutions. As natural swimmers, this process is safe, and the process adheres to strict regulations to ensure the well-being of the animals. Trained handlers are always present during dipping to guide them through the process.
The process from fibre to fashion
The transformation of mohair from raw fibre to our fabric requires dedication and expertise. As we are a division of one of the most significant groupings in UK textiles, The SIL Group we are able to use the service of the entire chain to ensure quality and traceability.
- Shearing: The mohair fleece is clipped from goat.
- Classing: The mohair is sorted in different lengths, diameters, and quality types. Meticulous classing adds value to the product. It is classed in terms of fineness from super fine to strong.
- Shearing: The mohair fleece is clipped from goat.
- Classing: The mohair is sorted in different lengths, diameters, and quality types. Meticulous classing adds value to the product. It is classed in terms of fineness from super fine to strong.
- Scouring: Washing to remove excess dirt and oils.
- Blending: The fibre is opened and blended with different colours of fibre types. Thus, the desired colour or composition is created.
- Carding: Aligning the fibres and removing vegetable matter, producing a ‘carded sliver’, a sliver/coil of mohair.
- Combing: Removing any remaining impurities to create a smooth and luxurious mohair ‘top’.
- Spinning: Transforming the mohair top into yarns with desired thickness and texture. a For a fluffy appearance, mohair yarns are twisted or brushed.
- Dyeing: Mohair can be dyed after combing, spinning, or weaving to create any colour
- Weaving: The yarn is woven into our luxurious cloth.
From the well-being of the Angora goats to the meticulous craftsmanship, we are committed to providing our customers with luxurious and sustainable mohair. We hope this answers any questions you may have about our processes and where we source our mohair from.
If you’d like to learn more about or explore our collections, email [email protected]